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This is a discussion on My 2011 STI within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Damn my bad I thought that the header would improve spool time, the intake spacers would lower intake temps, and ...

  1. #31
    Registered User sjcurtis's Avatar
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    Damn my bad I thought that the header would improve spool time, the intake spacers would lower intake temps, and the perrin ebcs was only $100 and it will be tuned as a three port witch will completly block off the wastegate untill it needs to open. What would be a cheaper and more reliable setup? I can't run a manual boost controler because of the SI drive? What would you say is more usefull stuff teflon_jones ?

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  3. #32
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    ^^ you didn't even mention the biggest waste of money -- the turbo timer...
    Yeah I forgot that one.

    Quote Originally Posted by sjcurtis View Post
    Damn my bad I thought that the header would improve spool time, the intake spacers would lower intake temps, and the perrin ebcs was only $100 and it will be tuned as a three port witch will completly block off the wastegate untill it needs to open. What would be a cheaper and more reliable setup? I can't run a manual boost controler because of the SI drive? What would you say is more usefull stuff teflon_jones ?
    The headers aren't a restriction with the mods you have, so they're not really going to do anything. The intake is also providing good airflow, though on the 2011 aftermarket intakes do provide a bit better improvement versus previous years. Those spacers aren't really doing anything with the other mods you have. Sell the other parts and put the money towards an AEM intake, then get a tune. With the rest of the money from selling parts, what to do next really depends on your goals. Do you have a heatshield on your turbo by the way, or did you ditch that when you went with the Perrin setup? If you don't have a heatshield, definitely pick one up.

    The 2011 suspension is vastly improved over previous years, so there's less need to do sways/endlinks and/or springs/struts. You used to get a huge improvement, but from everything I've heard now, it doesn't make the big impact on your handling that you used to get. However, if you get some Whiteline, Cobb, or similar high quality swaybars and endlinks, it will definitely improve the handling, but at the price of a harsher ride. After that, I'd look at springs/struts.

    I'd also consider changing your rotors and pads, but I personally find that hard to justify if they're pretty new. You just don't get much for the stock parts when you sell them. Some slotted rotors and good pads would be a good change to help stop the power better.

    And if you're interested in things other than performance parts, I'd get some new speakers/amp/head unit. The stock units are garbage!
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
    '13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
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  4. #33
    Registered User sjcurtis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post
    Yeah I forgot that one.

    The headers aren't a restriction with the mods you have, so they're not really going to do anything. The intake is also providing good airflow, though on the 2011 aftermarket intakes do provide a bit better improvement versus previous years. Those spacers aren't really doing anything with the other mods you have. Sell the other parts and put the money towards an AEM intake, then get a tune. With the rest of the money from selling parts, what to do next really depends on your goals. Do you have a heatshield on your turbo by the way, or did you ditch that when you went with the Perrin setup? If you don't have a heatshield, definitely pick one up.

    The 2011 suspension is vastly improved over previous years, so there's less need to do sways/endlinks and/or springs/struts. You used to get a huge improvement, but from everything I've heard now, it doesn't make the big impact on your handling that you used to get. However, if you get some Whiteline, Cobb, or similar high quality swaybars and endlinks, it will definitely improve the handling, but at the price of a harsher ride. After that, I'd look at springs/struts.

    I'd also consider changing your rotors and pads, but I personally find that hard to justify if they're pretty new. You just don't get much for the stock parts when you sell them. Some slotted rotors and good pads would be a good change to help stop the power better.

    And if you're interested in things other than performance parts, I'd get some new speakers/amp/head unit. The stock units are garbage!
    The headers made a pretty noticable improvment with spool up, If you look at page one I already have a AEM intake, I have a Access Port and its tuned for the intake and the TBE with a stage two tune, also if you looked at page one you would have seen that I put the stock heat shield back on the turbo, and the intake spacers cost about $90 and I had to take the intake off to put the AMR turbo inlet on anyway. I did all the work myself so as far as price I don't have that much money in the car as of now.

  5. #34
    Registered User sjcurtis's Avatar
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    The turbo timer is the cheapest volt gauge that I have ever bought.

  6. #35
    Registered User Trinidrift3's Avatar
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  7. #36
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjcurtis View Post
    The headers made a pretty noticable improvment with spool up, If you look at page one I already have a AEM intake, I have a Access Port and its tuned for the intake and the TBE with a stage two tune, also if you looked at page one you would have seen that I put the stock heat shield back on the turbo, and the intake spacers cost about $90 and I had to take the intake off to put the AMR turbo inlet on anyway. I did all the work myself so as far as price I don't have that much money in the car as of now.
    Too many pictures and I'm lazy.

    What other mods did you do at the same time as the headers? The only way to compare if they helped your spool time would be if you tested the car with only the header change and zero other changes.
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
    '13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
    '77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading

  8. #37
    Registered User sjcurtis's Avatar
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    I put the AEM cai on first and put about 2500 miles on the car and then put the headers on with no other mods. I had to sell the Perrin exhaust from my 08 sti before I could get the new exhaust so I put about 1k miles on the car with just the header and the cai it makes a differance.

  9. #38
    Registered User sjcurtis's Avatar
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    I got the mishimoto radiator and mishimoto red hoses yesterday and put them on today and they look great.






    Before


    After


  10. #39
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    Very nice!
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  11. #40
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjcurtis View Post
    I put the AEM cai on first and put about 2500 miles on the car and then put the headers on with no other mods. I had to sell the Perrin exhaust from my 08 sti before I could get the new exhaust so I put about 1k miles on the car with just the header and the cai it makes a differance.
    The problem is that's a totally unscientific test. Sure, maybe your turbo spooled a little better (though I really question the quantitative difference), but generally you're sacrificing low-end TQ when you swap headers. So maybe you get a little bit better flow from the headers than stock, but for a daily driver, you're sacrificing power in the RPM ranges where you're usually driving.

    Yeah I know I'm here knocking your mods again, sorry, nothing personal.
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
    '13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
    '77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading

  12. #41
    Registered User jd92677's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjcurtis View Post
    I got the mishimoto radiator and mishimoto red hoses yesterday and put them on today and they look great.
    If I may make a suggestion, don't re-use the original hose clamps. Get yourself a set of good clamps, you'll avoid headaches in the future.
    Stink eye mob #727
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  13. #42
    Registered User sjcurtis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd92677 View Post
    If I may make a suggestion, don't re-use the original hose clamps. Get yourself a set of good clamps, you'll avoid headaches in the future.
    I know I was in a hurry so I reused the crappy clamps but I am going to get some better ones and putting them on the car the next time I drain the radiator.

  14. #43
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    Quick question what's the difference between stock radiator vs. the aftermarket radiator? I never understood that part.

  15. #44
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krntehknik303
    Quick question what's the difference between stock radiator vs. the aftermarket radiator? I never understood that part.
    If OE is still sufficient for your needs, the cost of the new hardware.
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  16. #45
    Registered User sjcurtis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krntehknik303 View Post
    Quick question what's the difference between stock radiator vs. the aftermarket radiator? I never understood that part.
    Its shiny

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