[F.A.S.T.]

here's a bit of info that i used for installation o nthe omori gauges on a lancer.

this should help you out a lil bit, and i know the gauge location is nto where you are planning on settin git up, but it will be useful for your install.

Aaron

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Omori Electrical Boost Gauge Install

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How To:
Omori Electrical Gauge Install

This how to will take you through an a-pillar gauge install for the Omori Electrical Gauge. The install car was a 2001 VW Jetta. Some minor detail could change over different models and years.

Tools Needed:
Small Screwdriver
T13 Torks Bit
10mm Socket
Omori Gauge and Kit
Flashlight
Solder Iron or In-line Wire Taps
Male Wire Adapter
Pillar Pod
Needle Nose Pliers or Hemostats (hospital needle nose pliers;look like scissors)
Scissors or knife
Drill (with drill bit matching bracket screws, this is a judgement call)

Omori Gauge and Kit: (includes)
Gauge
“T” – plastic “t”
Gauge Lead – wire that plugs into rear of gauge
Info Lead – wire cluster that plugs into Gauge Lead
Power Lead – wire cluster with white, red, brown and (2) black wires one the end
Pressure Lead – wire cluster that plugs into sending unit
Rubber Tubing – gray tubing
Sending Unit – silver and metal
Bracket

Lay kit out and connect everything to get an idea of what it will look like. There is only one way for everything to go toghther. This will help you to understand my directions. I am using some very simple and sometimes made up words to facilitate the instruction process.

1) Open hood, Remove battery cover, Disconnect battery’s negative terminal using 10mm socket

2) Remove plastic guard under dash with the T13 torks bit. Three screws.

3) Pop out rubber grommet in the firewall from the engine bay See Pic 5

4) Cut the DV line about 1.5 to 2 inches from the DV using scissors or knife See Pic 1

5) Insert “T” in the cut DV line leaving the restrictor side out (this is the side of the “T” that has a little brass fitting inside) See Pic 2

6) Connect the rubber tubing to the “T” on the exposed side (again, the side with the brass restrictor) See Pic 3

7) Locate a suitable position in the engine bay for the sending unit. (I installed mine on the CAI support arm) Make sure your rubber tubing can reach the sending unit See Pic 4

8) Drill holes for mounting screws included with the bracket and attach the bracket using drill

9) Fasten sending unit to the bracket using the three supplied screws. See Pic 4

10) Attach the rubber tubing to the sending unit and secure in the engine bay

11) Attach Pressure Lead to the Sending unit

12) Run Pressure Lead through hole in firewall See Pic 5

Finished Under the Hood

13) Pop out the dimmer switch using the small screwdriver

14) Open fuse panel door. It is on the left side of the dash while seated in the driver's seat. It is concealed by the car door when the car door is shut.

15) Pull the red wire from the power lead out of the wire cluster, but do no disconnect it from the beige plug

16) Run the white, brown and black wires that are still in the cluster up under the dash to the rear of the dimmer switch

17) Solder or in-line wiretap the white wire on the power lead to the gray with blue stripe wire and likewise with both black wires to the orange wire. Do not use the brown wire

18) Attach Male wire adapter to the end of the red wire and run through dash to the fuse panel ( I took my pair of hemostats and stuck them through the lower left hand area of the fuse panel. Got a flash light and found them from under the dash, put the male adapter in the grip and then pulled it through from the other side)

19) Insert male adapter to fuse slot 31, top middle of bottom section (on my car this was empty and powered only when the key was turned on. This is what you are looking for, ignition power only)

20) Attach male power lead to female info lead making sure you are matching red, white, brown and black wires to that side of the info lead

21) Attach male pressure lead (from engine bay) to female info lead making sure you are matching the correct colors

22) Remove a-pillar cover
sublist
A) Pull weather strip off
B) Push cover towards passenger side of car
C) Push gently on the airbag (if applicable) to expose the “***** clip”
D) Use needle nose pliers or hemostats to pull the clip upwards (keep at it, this is not called the “***** clip” for nothing. It is made tough on purpose; it holds the cover on while the airbag explodes. This is the hardest part of the install for most)
E) Pull off cover, there are three more fasteners, but not of the “*****” variety
F) Attach pod at lower end of the cover

23) Attach info lead to gauge lead and run gauge lead through dash and push through exposed area at the base of the naked a-pillar (it may be easier to do this by using the technique applied to the power wire and the fuse panel; push a hemostat or needle nose pliers through form the top and attach under the dash then pull from the top)

24) Replace a-pillar cover (put “***** clip” back together, it should hold itself on the cover, keep playing with it, it will go back, you might need to bend it back into proper working order since like me you bent the hell out of it getting it out) Make sure you run the gauge lead through the face of the pod

25) Plug gauge lead into the gauge

26) Attach the negative battery terminal back to the battery using the 10mm socket
27) Turn the key to the on spot and see that the gauge lights up and dims

28) Start the car and drive. Make sure the gauge works and reads correctly according to what you know should be right. Refer to posts for this information as it changes for different applications

29) Calibrate gauge if necessary
sublist
A) There is a small screwdriver included with the kit
B) Set switch on rear of gauge, behind sticker to adjust (right side)
C) Adjust set screw under the sticker to calibrate gauge (only if needed)
D) Return switch to meter to read boost
E) Repeat until boost is correct
F) Make sure switch is set to meter

30) Push gauge and gauge lead back into pod, making sure the gauge is positioned correctly. The zero should be at the 9 o clock position

31) Replace under dash panel, fuse door, dimmer switch and close hood

32) Enjoy


Notes:
- I did not have to calibrate my gauge.

- For a column application the wiring is all the same, but the pod is obviously missing.

- The warning light comes on as you are nearing 21 lbs of boost or the gauge thinks you are gaining very fast.

- Smile, knowing you have arguably the best gauge on the market for this car.




this was found at: http://www.sportcompactracing.com/vb...ad.php?t=17900